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mixing it up in the midwest
country charm and city sophistication in oklahoma city

By Jenny Coon Peterson

Oklahoma City sprung up overnight as pioneers raced West during the 1889 land run. Smack in the middle of Oklahoma, where the rolling green hills of the eastern countryside meet the flat expanse of plains belonging to the West (and where the wind comes whipping down them, just like Rodgers and Hammerstein so famously put it), the city, like the land, is a mix of both sides. It still embraces that pioneer spirit, with guys in dusty cowboy hats saddling up for a hearty meal of lamb fries and steak from the legendary Cattlemen's Steakhouse, and women who steadfastly maintain the independent outlook that infused the Old West, mixing a love of sports, good barbecue and the arts with ease. Don't be surprised to catch a flash of cowboy boots at a gallery event or see proper ladies swathed in OU crimson tucking into pulled pork on game days. In a place that fervently celebrates the past, it isn't unexpected to learn that Route 66 runs right through the heart of the city. But Oklahoma City has also jumped headlong into the future, roping that can-do attitude into revitalizing an old warehouse district into becoming the city's most popular attraction and bringing the state's first professional sports team (the NBA's Oklahoma City Thunder) to the scene in 2008.

Stay and Play

Bricktown is a can't-miss stop for any visitor in town for just a night or an entire weekend. The multi-block area of old brick warehouses is bisected by a canal and a river walk lined with restaurants, shops and bars.

It's a family scene by day, but transforms into a bar-hopping mecca at night with thumping clubs, smoky piano bars and low-key hangouts dotting every corner. The best places by far for a sophisticated evening are Makers Cigar & Piano Lounge and the Purple Bar at Nonna's Euro-American Ristorante.

Get a feel for the area with a ride on the canal. Water Taxi of Oklahoma ferries people along the nearly mile-long canal, as a guide shares a bit of history and points out spots of interest along the way. Water Taxi also offers adult Cocktail Cruises at night.

Just off of the canal, one of Bricktown's newest establishments is also one of its funnest. RedPin Restaurant and Bowling Lounge has a cool retro vibe that is felt the instant you walk through the tall glass doors. The bowling lanes feature cozy couches instead of the standard plastic chairs - and martinis (try the Pintini) - are in order instead of cheap beer.

There are a number of fine hotels in Bricktown, but for a treat, check into one of the two nearby historic hotels. The Skirvin Hilton, an opulent throwback to the state's oil-rich past, was renovated and reopened in 2007 to much fanfare. Today, it is one of Oklahoma City's premier luxury hotels. The Colcord Hotel is another great option. Directly across from the city's botanical gardens, the Colcord is housed in what was the city's first skyscraper and is a chic boutique place to spend the night.

The Myriad Botanical Gardens are one of the city's top attractions. The 17-acre green space boasts manicured gardens surrounding a sunken lake and an outdoor stage that hosts a number of events throughout the year, including Oklahoma Shakespeare in the Park during the summer. The jewel of the gardens, however, is the Crystal Bridge Tropical Conservatory, a cylindrical conservatory that spans the lake and houses an extraordinary collection of exotic plant and animal life from around the globe.

On the east side of downtown, the arts district is home to the world-class Oklahoma City Museum of Art. Besides traveling exhibits - look for the newest exhibit, Turner to Cezanne: Masterpieces from the Davies Collection, during the summer of 2009 - the museum is also home to a permanent collection of whimsical glassworks by the world-renowned Dale Chihuly. The museum houses a fantastic café and a small theatre that hosts art house productions.

Rounding out the downtown attractions is the poignant Oklahoma City National Memorial and Museum. The haunting memorial sits in the footprint of the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building that was destroyed by a bomb in 1995. It is a somber, yet beautiful salute to both the survivors and those who lost their lives. It is especially moving to visit at dusk, when chairs representing those who perished - including smaller chairs for the many children - are illuminated along with the Survivor Tree, an American Elm that survived the blast and has become a symbol of healing for the city.

Break Out the Plastic

While Bricktown has added worthwhile shopping in the past few years - namely the Painted Door, Red Dirt Emporium, Firefly and Lit Clothing - Western Avenue, which stretches from approximately N.W. 36 to Wilshire, is where the locals in the know go to feed their shopping fix. Just north of downtown, past the affluent, old neighborhoods of Mesta Park and Heritage Hills (worth a drive through if you've got the time), the miles-long avenue is filled with locally owned boutiques, unique restaurants and fabulous spas - check out Three Graces for some ultimate pampering.

At the southern end of the street, be sure to visit KSDesign for fabulous finds with a chic flair. The cozy store stocks housewares such as linens, elegant bath products and unique glassware. Across the street, the 42nd Street Candy Co. is a tiny bonbon of a shop full of big glass jars overflowing with sweets. Further up the road, the French Cowgirl mixes rustic yet cool décor with trendy clothing, plus, of course, a stock of cowgirl boots. Another must-see is Lux, a well-edited shop featuring unique gifts, gorgeous jewelry and pretty, modern home décor. With much the same look, but focusing on glassware and entertaining, Bebe's in Nichols Hills Plaza stocks beautiful finds. The Plaza is full of boutiques - check out C/K & Co. for high-end apparel and accessories or Shoe Gypsy for great flats. Toward the north end of the stretch of stores and restaurants, Wilshire Village is a smaller plaza housing the whimsical Glimpse, The Make-Up Bar and many more. Shopping bliss, for sure.

Did Someone Mention Food?

All that shopping will no doubt work up an appetite. You're in luck; there is no shortage of original eateries throughout the city. Bricktown has a large concentration of great spots serving up everything from barbecue at Earl's Rib Palace to nouveau lounge fare at RedPin.

If you're in search of gastronomic delights, however, head north of Bricktown. Iguana Mexican Grill opened in late 2008 in a repurposed, brick building tucked on a side street downtown. Vibrant paintings hang along the exposed brick walls and a small patio is perfect for margaritas. The food, though, is the star of the eatery, which has quickly become a favorite.

Iguana's executive chef, Ryan Parrott, recently joined Chef Jonathan Stranger to create Table One, an intimate dining experience set up in a private space downtown. Table One utilizes fresh, local ingredients to create a five- to 10-course meal for up to eight people - a truly unforgettable event for any group. Western Avenue is dotted with locally owned restaurants. Favorites include Sushi Neko, The Lobby Bar, which is inside the historic Will Rogers Theatre, The Wedge Pizzeria and Bin 73, a wine bar that also presents amazing appetizers and chocolate fondue. Nestled along a curved street between the historic neighborhoods of Edgemere Park and Heritage Hills just south of Western Avenue, the Paseo Arts District was developed in 1929 as one of the city's first shopping districts. Today, the tiny district is home to unique shopping, 17 galleries and diverse restaurants all housed in Spanish-style buildings. For unforgettable dining, head to the Paseo Grill. The beautifully decorated space feels warm and intimate and blends well with the sumptuous, yet cozy, food. Be sure to sample the fried green beans and ask if the chicken pot pie - done in a cast iron skillet - is available.

Along Route 66, a new establishment has quickly taken its place as an icon along the mother road. Pops, designed by renowned architect Rand Elliott, can't be missed - just look for the giant sculptural soda bottle (complete with a straw) beckoning from the road. The traditional soda fountain-style eatery takes its moniker seriously. Glass walls are lined from floor to ceiling with bottles, from the standard to the unusual. On any day, you can peruse the coolers filled with 500 different varieties of soda, symbolizing the retro-kitsch side of Route 66. Oklahoma City, from its perch on the prairie, is many things: country chic, city sophisticated, a shopping paradise, a gastronomic delight and definitely a destination coming into its own.

Oklahoma city 411

Oklahoma City Convention & Visitors Bureau:
www.okccvb.org

Hotels:

Colcord Hotel:
405.601.4300, www.colcordhotel.com

Skirvin Hilton:
405.272.3030, www.hilton.com

Restaurants and Bars:

Bin 73:
405.843.0073, www.bin73.com

Earl's Rib Palace:
405.272.9898www.earlsribpalace.com

Iguana Mexican Grill:
405.606.7172

Makers Cigar & Piano Lounge:
405.606.9000

Pops:
405.928.7677, www.pops66.com

RedPin Bowling Lounge:
405.702.8880, www.bowlredpin.com